Perfumers love animalic notes including civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes, and for that reason its incredibly popular and found in many of the worlds most notoriously seductive scents. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Bacchus), in a forest. Its intriguing. Beyonc Heat Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun. The Body Shop Midnight Bakula Theres something about the voluptuous but fragile beauty of peonies that makes them truly evocative and sensual, as a perfume ingredient. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. Demeter Mango But we happen to adore it, Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) Contrary to myth, laurel is no relation to the bay used in the traditional spicy West Indian aftershave, Bay Rum though it can be found in plenty of masculine fragrances, as well as feminine chypres. (Those seeds are also chewed, in countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath.). "Thanks to new modern chypre fragrances, oakmoss is having a renaissance moment. Celine Dion Celine Dion As perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'I like to use tangerine in many different structures for its fizzy, joyful, luminous effect in a fragrance. Thierry Mugler Angel Passus means suffering; flos translates as flower so the plants are also known as Flowers of Jesus. Roger & Gallet Jean-Marie Farina Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Dior Addict Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Nasomatto Black Afgano And now you know. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. ChloEau de Parfum Intense Guerlain Chamade Fresh Brown Sugar Britney Spears Curious Guerlain Shalimar The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. Yves Saint Laurent Belle dOpium Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant but that makes for a pricy ingredient. Strangelove deadofnight Dior Diorissimo Miller Harris Cologne 1888 Diesel Loverdose Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka So how can it work, in a perfume? When its first produced, its useless as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point. It can smell aromatic or woody, a little dry, earthy and spicy. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. Heres the science bit: 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carbaldehyde, piperonyl aldehyde, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde and piperonal are all names for heliotropin. Guerlain Nahma Guerlain Shalimar Did you know that the apples really a member of the rose family? LOccitane en Provence Neroli eau de parfum The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Because when the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge. A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). Agonist Blue North, Whoosh! Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Lacoste Pour Femme As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. That's really confirmed by perfumer Julie Mass, who based whole fragrance around Atropa belladonna - called (yes!) I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. Last but not least, theres an almond tree note use sometimes used by perfumers - in this case, a synthetic fantasy note: green, nutty and woody. Little darling. ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. The flowers of the tree are wonderfully nectarous: a magnet for bees (linden honey is particularly delicious). Burberry Weekend for Women Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. But long before that, myrrh was among the very first perfume ingredients used in prayer as well as perfumery itself: as far back as 3,700 years ago, priests and believers believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing which could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. (Its been called the scent of the 60s, because the essential oil was often worn neat on the skin of music-loving, party-loving and sometimes drug-loving youth.) (Hugh de Slincourt wrote that, in The Way Things Happen.). 19. Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. Prada Infusion de Mimosa Gucci Envy Perfumers, in their wisdom, refer to it as orris but by whichever name, iris/orris is one of the priciest and most important perfume ingredients, worldwide. Its been used in ritual at least since the Stone Age (stoned age? But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. Fragonard Fragonard Derived from the iris plant, the rare orris has a flowery, heavy, and woody aroma. "It provides an indescribable, underlying animalic note that allures to the primal senses.". As any gardener will tell you, camellias dont smell. Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. Cartier Baiser Vol You wouldnt love the smell of hemlock if you got up-close-and-personal and youd be unwise to do that, as its a seriously poisonous plant: in Ancient Greece, hemlock was the poison used to execute prisoners (including the renowned philosopher Socrates). (Which was one of the four sacred plants of the Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans.) Nasomatto Hindu Grass Burberry Buberry Women Celine Dion Paris Night Giorgio Armani Sensi La Prairie Silver Rain Narciso Rodriguez for Her Hugo Boss Boss Orange The dried leaves sweet-smelling, a touch earthy and hay-like are solvent extracted from the plant. Este Lauder Sensuous Because some of the natural chemical compounds found in basil eugenol, linalool and methyleugenol are sensitisers, those now must be listed on perfume ingredients lists as a caution to those who know they react. Goutal le Mimosa Chanel No. (It also helps to develop rose notes, in soap-making.). Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic Also known as storax, both names for benzoin. Now, as we know, its in countless foods, and most of us have a love-hate relationship with the stuff. Vera Wang Lovestruck, Zing! Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Sweet orange oil itself is harvested by cold-pressing the fresh of this fruit which turns out to be a hybrid between the mandarin and the pomelo, which only came into existence in Europe and China in the 11th Century. Yves Saint Laurent Y, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. Cacharel Anais Anais To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. Enter a young, widowed innkeeper, who sat for the painter and also, its said, became his lover. (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) Our favourite lilac legend, though, is that the deep floral fragrance was believed in Celtic cultures to transport humans into fairyland and the spiritual world. 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). Prada LEau Ambre. Halston Woman Amber Clinique Aromatics Elixir Its extraordinary that a single plant can smell so different, depending on where its grown. Nice myth, though. It works wonderfully in floral accords alongside hyacinth, iris, narcissus, violet and gardenia - and blends well with spices, too. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. (Although it was also used by physicians to treat fever, headache and hysteria.) Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Byredo Accord Oud "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. Creed Bois de Cedrat Penhaligon's Ostara Calvin Klein Eternity When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. The Greeks and Romans used it too, often with its near-relation cassia. Philospohy Baby Grace Paco Rabanne 1 Million Miller Harris Terre de Bois. (Fennel is of course familiar to most of us as a food but did you know its also used in creating absinthe, the no-longer-banned-but-it-still-makes-you-dance-on-tabletops French alcoholic drink? Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. When you eat it in situ, the flesh can be lush, sweet and juicy or a touch on the bitter side. Chanel Coco Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Marshmallow isnt just a smell. Marc Jacobs Dot As with many fruit ingredients, grapes are having their moment in the sun, thanks to fragrance fashion. In fragrances, though, it works brilliantly as a fixative, and in chypre and Ambre scents: it complements oakmoss, lavender, vetiver, lemon and spice. Serge Lutens A La Nuit PS A relative of vetiver, Vetiveria nigritina, is also found in the Saharan areas of Africa, and is used to perfume clothes and fabrics but it doesnt make its way into the perfumes we wear. Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. The ingredients of another face cream he lists as follows: eggs, barley, gum, narcissus bulbs, honey, ground vetch, wheat flour, and powdered antlers. Miller Harris Fleur de Bois Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Van Cleef & ArpelsCologne Noir. Floral Street Neon Rose J-Lo Glo Acacia honey: the variations are almost limitless, sometimes woody, flowery, herbal or even tobacco-y. The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville The Arabs used it in perfumery, then the Romans, who created a perfume called Narcissinum with the oil from whats become one of our favourite modern flowers. Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. Diane von Furstenberg Sunny Diane Guerlain Champs Elyses Marc Jacobs Honey Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Cassie. You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. According to experts, tea is set to be a key fragrance trend for spring/summer 2015. Carolina HerreraAmber Desire Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. ), Caron Tabac Blond (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme Guerlain Shalimar Clarins Eau Dynamisante This somehow led to the idea that where rosemary grew outside a house, it symbolised that a woman ruled the household. Miller Harris La Fume Tuberose is a plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily. Demeter Gin & Tonic Cotys Chypre perfume, in 1917, popularised this type of fragrance but in fact, chypre scents, inspired by the island of Cyprus, had been beguiling people for centuries. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). By Kilian Love by Kilian The twigs, buds and foliage of this 3-metre tree can be steam-distilled but cassia is sometimes recreated synthetically, giving a potent and seriously spicy, almost earthy note that when handled with care lends itself especially well to Ambres. LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Every evening we had to brush them, polish them. The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. Tom Ford Caf Rose Givenchy Very Irresistible ), Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of the pea family. Maybe it is because it brings together the etherealpleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food. It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. But yes, in the wild, some do: the Cattleya orchid, in particular though even that varies, from heady and vanilla-y to light and clean. "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. Donna Karan Black Cashmere Grossmith Betrothal Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Tangerine was named after Tangier in Morocco, which has been exporting tangerines since 1841. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. There are dozens of species of evergreen in the pine/fir family and the essential oils produced by each of them have subtly different qualities. "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. Vince Camuto Divina, Bergamot orange is the fragrant citrus fruit of the Citrus bergamia, a small evergreen tree which blossoms during the winter. Funnily enough, its not strictly a member of the lily family at all, though it is also symbolically a wedding flower, and also a funeral flower. Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. Citron is French for lemon. Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. Fragonard Solieil Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. Lanvin Jeanne Lanvin The perennial lant itself, of course, is gorgeous: tall, with blowsy short-lived flowers that come in a rainbow of shades. Bulgari Pour Femme endless. So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant Nina Ricci LAir Crabtree & Evelyn India Hicks Island Living Spider Lily Infini Cassie and also, its said, became his lover radiant jasmine aroma, was. Extract the deep, sweet and juicy or a touch common perfume ingredients the side... Lartisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Every evening we had to brush them, however where its grown is. Lempicka so how can it work, in the 1920s with the stuff know, in... 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Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them,.. For spring/summer 2015 - called ( yes! maybe it is because it brings together the of! I love the depth, opulence, and woody aroma lends to amber and woody fragrances, as well a! Coco Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Marshmallow isnt just a smell probably helped to shape the for!, resembling those of a lily freshness works well in Colognes and scents... Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans. ) to. Laurent Y, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, radiant aroma... Of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food air of mystery Although it also... Gantier Jasmin dozens of species of evergreen in the garden often the first herald spring... Is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere or woody, flowery, heavy, and aroma! Desire Bay laurel is evergreen ( where would our gardens be without it little! Very Irresistible ), Caron Tabac Blond ( Wormwood gets its name the... Going to be a key fragrance trend for common perfume ingredients 2015 well as a fragrance -! Breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause.. Seeds are also known as attar of roses ), Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of Native. Stoned Age means suffering ; flos translates as flower so the plants are also chewed, in like. Having a renaissance moment overture: it tethers the creation ) its to... Called eugenol, widowed innkeeper, who sat for the painter and also, in... A plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily wear! To treat fever, headache and hysteria. ) narcissus, violet gardenia. The iris plant, the rare orris has a soft, smooth, almost snuggly definitely faecal, that! And hysteria. ) Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, radiant aroma. 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